Library bag tutorial

While my days of making library bags for my children are well and truly over, I find myself still making them for nieces and nephews. This is my tried and true method for a lined, drawstring bag, with an optional personalised nameplate.

 

You will need:

• Two 15" x 21" rectangles outer fabric (I would recommend a heavier weight fabric such as cotton drill, denim or furnishing fabric because these bags get a pounding from the kids)
• Two 15" x 21" rectangles lining fabric
• One 15" x 8½" rectangle for nameplate background
• Scraps of fabric for appliquéd letters
• 2 yards cord
• Fusible web

Appliquéd name plate

I used Microsoft Word for Mac 2011 to prepare the nameplate text. If you are using a PC, the commands should be similar.

Open Microsoft Word. Go to File : Page Setup. Change Orientation from portrait to landscape. Click OK.

 

Go to Format : Document. Click on the 'Margins' tab. Set the margins to measure 0.5". 

Click on the 'Layout' tab. Set the Vertical alignment to Centre. Click OK.

Go to Table : Insert : Table. Set 'Number of columns' to 1 and 'Number of rows' to 1. Select 'AutoFit to window'. Click OK.

Go to Table : Table Properties. Click on the 'Row' tab. Select 'Specify height' and set to 4". Make sure 'Row height is' set to 'Exactly'.

Click on the 'Cell' tab. Set Vertical Alignment to Center. Click OK.

Type your desired text in the table. I typed 'Jessica'. Select your text and set the alignment to centre.

Go to Format : Font. Click on the 'Font' tab and set the font to 200pt Arial Rounded MT Bold.

Click on 'Text Effects'. Select Text Fill. Set Color to No Fill. 

Select 'Text Line'. Set Color to Black. Click OK. And OK.

Print the template. 

This template can now be used for tracing letters for your appliqué. Place the template face down on a light box or window pane, and trace the letter outlines onto fusible web. The letters will be reversed. Cut out the fusible web letters roughly, approximately ⅛" beyond the traced lines.

Fuse the letters to the back of your desired appliqué fabric. Cut letters out exactly on the traced line using a short, sharp pair of scissors.

Fold the 15" x 8½" nameplate rectangle in half lengthwise. Using a soluble fabric marker, mark a line 1" from the folded edge of the nameplate. Position the letters on this line, using the template as a guide. Fuse the letters in place. Appliqué each letter using a machine blanket stitch using a thread colour matching the letter fabric.

Constructing the bag

Using a soluble fabric marker, mark a line 8" from the lower edge of one of the outer fabric rectangles. Align the raw edge of the appliquéd nameplate to this line, right side down, as shown below. Attach the nameplate to the rectangle with a ¼" seam. 

Flip the nameplate downwards so that it is right side up and press. Topstitch the nameplate ⅛" from the top and bottom edge..

Stitch the outer and lining rectangles together, end to end, as shown below.

Fold in half, right sides together, matching outer to outer rectangle, and lining to lining rectangle. On each long edge of the outer rectangle, mark a 1¼" opening, 1¼" down from the seam line. On the short edge of the lining rectangle, mark a 2" opening.

Stitch the three sides together, stopping and securing with backstitching at each opening.  

Turn the bag right side out through the 2" opening in the lining and slip stitch the opening closed. Tuck the lining inside the bag and press.

Using a soluble fabric marker, mark lines 1¼" and 2½" from the upper edge of the bag, front and back. Stitch along these lines to form the casing. 

Cut the cord into two 1 yard lengths. 

Attach a large safety pin to the end of one length of cord. Starting on the right side of the bag, thread the cord through the front casing, past the casing opening on the opposite side, and through the back casing, to return to where you started. Knot the two ends of the cord together securely.

Repeat this threading process with the remaining length of cord, starting on the left side of the bag. These cords are pulled from either side of the bag to close.

Of course, this method can be adapted to make any sized drawstring bag for any purpose.

New journal cover tutorial

One of my most popular free tutorials over the years has been my journal cover tutorial. I have returned to it over and over to whiz up a quick gift. 

I've updated my tutorial to provide instructions to custom fit the dimensions of any journal. I've also come up with a couple of nifty options for elastic closures. Enjoy!

Step 1: Preliminary measuring

Measure and record the length (A) of your journal in inches.

 

Measure and record the total width of the back cover + spine + front cover of your journal(B) in inches. Do this by wrapping your measuring tape around your closed journal. 

 

A = length of journal

B = total width of back cover + spine + front cover of journal

Step 2: Gather your supplies

• Main fabric - yardage required = (A + 2)" For example, a journal with length 9" requires 11" x width of fabric
• Lightweight fusible batting, e.g. Vilene H630 - (A + 2)"
• Lining fabric - (A + 2)"
• ½" wide elastic - (A + 2)" length
• General sewing supplies
• Purchased white crocheted flower, approximately 2" diameter (optional)
• White stranded embroidery cotton (optional)

Step 3: Cutting

From each of the main fabric and the fusible batting, cut: 
One rectangle that has a length of (A + 1)" and a width of (1.5 x B)".

From the lining fabric, cut: 

One rectangle that has a length of (A + 1)" and a width of B".

Step 4:

A ¼" seam allowance is used unless otherwise stated. 

Fuse the batting rectangle to the wrong side of the main fabric rectangle. 

Overlock or zigzag the short edges of both the main fabric and lining rectangles. Note: Overlocking or zigzagging the edges is optional - it just gives a neater and more robust finish.

Turn the short ends of the main fabric rectangle to the wrong side by ¼" to form a hem. Top stitch the hem in place.

Step 5: Optional embellishment

If you would like to embellish your journal cover with a crocheted flower, mark the centre of your cover with pins as shown below. Using a pencil, lightly mark a line 6½" long, at a point 4½" to the right of centre.

Please note, my journal is approximately A5 size. If your chosen journal is significantly different in size, you may need to 'eyeball' the position of your stem and flower.

Using 6 strands of embroidery floss, work a running stitch along this pencil line. Hand stitch the crocheted flower in place.


Step 6: Elastic closure #1

Cut the ½" wide elastic to the length of your cover. Position the elastic 1" in from the right hand edge. Baste the ends of the elastic in place at the top and bottom edges using ⅛" seam.

Step 7:

Place the main fabric rectangle wrong side down on a flat surface. Fold each of the short ends of the rectangle in equally, right sides together, so that the total width of the cover measures B". Pin the ends in place. 

 

Step 8: Lining the cover

Lay the lining rectangle on the cover, right sides together. Pin all layers together.

Using a ¼" seam, sew along the top and bottom edges of the cover through all layers. Overlock or zigzag to neaten the seams if desired.


Step 9: Turning the cover

Turn the cover right side out and press well. This is the only step that can be a little confusing. I've addressed this in the following (rather dodgy!) clip:

That's it! Nothing remains but to slip your journal inside your cover and stand back to admire your work!

The elastic closure should extend from the front cover and wrap around the back of the journal.

The journal that I used had a transparent cover, which by chance was perfect because it allows you to see the lining fabric you've chosen when the journal is open.

A variation: Elastic closure #2

I made a second journal cover to show you an alternative elastic closure.

Follow the previous instructions up to and including Step 4. 
Place your main fabric rectangle wrong side down on a flat surface. Using a pencil, lightly mark vertical lines at equal distances from the left and right edges of the rectangle, so that the width between the lines measures (B + ½)", as shown below. 

Mark each of these lines at the midpoint. Place marks 2" either side of the midpoint on the left hand line.

Cut three 1¾" lengths of ½" wide elastic. Fold them in half to form loops and pin them at the three points that you just marked. The raw ends of the elastic should meet the marked line. Baste each of them in place using ⅛" seam, as shown below. 

Fold each of the short ends of the rectangle along the vertical pencil lines, right sides together. Sew a ¼" seam at each short end of the cover. This seam encloses the raw ends of the elastic loops.

Complete the journal cover by following the previous instructions from Step 8. Note that the width of lining fabric should lay between the two seam lines that you have just sewn. 

On turning your cover, it should look like this, with elastic loops at either end:

Insert your journal, and slide a pen through the loops to secure the journal closed. Nifty huh?

I hope you have as much fun with this tutorial as my previous one.

I would love to see your creations, so please send me photos! Best wishes, Bloom x

Mum's 30-minute reversible ironing board cover

We usually spend some of our summer holidays at our farm. The weather is hot, hot, hot with most days at least 40 degrees Celsius. So it is a perfect time to be inside sewing during the heat of the day. 

I have my grandmother's old ironing board at the farm, and it was desperately in need of a new cover. In a nod to my fabric-hoarding predecessor, my Mum and I dug out an old piece of fabric from Grandma's stash.

In a combined effort, Mum sewed while I wrote the tutorial :)

Requirements:

• Two pieces of fabric the length x width of your ironing board plus approximately 8 inches. We used the old floral fabric for one side, and a blue and white micro-check for the other. Our ironing board is 54" long and 15" wide at the heel end.
• 1.5 yards 1/4" elastic

Lay the two fabric pieces on a flat surface, right sides together. Lay the ironing board on top of the fabric, table side down.

Mark a line 4" beyond the perimeter of the ironing board.

Cut both fabrics along this line. Pin the two pieces together. 

Using a 1/4" seam, sew the two pieces together, leaving a gap for turning at the straight end of the cover. If you have an overlocker, simply overlock the pieces together. Mum says the gap needs to be big enough to get your fist in!

Turn the cover right side out through the gap. Press the seam.

Topstitch 1/8" from the edge, leaving an inch gap for inserting elastic later. Topstitch a second row of stitching 5/8" from the edge to form a casing.

Thread the 1/4" elastic through the casing. Place the cover over the ironing board and adjust the elastic to length such that the cover fits the board firmly. Secure the elastic to length with a few stitches, or knot it if you're feeling lazy :) Trim any surplus elastic. Done, ready for action! In Mum's words, "A blind man would be pleased to see that".

And in a nod to Jamie Oliver, whose 30-minute Meals take me two hours, we relinquish all responsibility for the claim that you will whip this ironing board cover up in the time declared :)

Kind regards,
Bloom and Bloom's Mum

Clay tag tutorial

I made some easy little clay tags as gifts for my workshop girls the other day.

They came together quickly and could be used any time a little personal touch is required :)

I used them to jazz up pots of sweet little violas. 

 You will need:

• air drying modelling clay - inexpensive, and available at art suppliers
• rolling pin
• crocheted doily
• rubber stamp
• stamp pad
• a glass or a circular biscuit cutter
• hole punch

Step 1: Roll a walnut sized ball of clay with a rolling pin until smooth. 

Step 2: Lay the doily over the clay and press into the clay with the rolling pin to leave an indented pattern.

Step 3: Ink a stamp of your choice, and press lightly into the clay. 

Step 4: Use a finely rimmed glass or a biscuit cutter to cut a circular shape from the clay.

Step 5: Make a hole in the top of the tag using a hole punch. 

Step 6: Set the tag aside to air dry, or if you are in a hurry like I was, put tag on a tray in the oven @ 50 degrees Celsius until dry. The clay will be pale grey when wet, but dries to white.

I have been fiddling with a Bloom page over on Facebook. If you'd prefer to keep up with me there, please pop over and 'like' me!